The SillageArchive

Vol. 02 · Reference

The Scent Library

A field guide to fragrance.

Chapter II

The Families.

Fourteen olfactive families, the lineage every perfume traces back to.

  • 01

    Floral

    The largest family — perfume's mother tongue. Anything that draws its idea from a flower in bloom.

    From cold and watery (lily of the valley) to indolic and carnal (jasmine, tuberose).

    Ingredients

    • Rose
    • Jasmine
    • Tuberose
    • Iris
    • Ylang-ylang
    • Neroli

    Beginner

    • Chloé Eau de Parfum
    • Marc Jacobs Daisy

    Niche

    • Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower
    • Serge Lutens Sa Majesté la Rose
  • 02

    Amber

    Formerly 'oriental' — warm, sweet, resinous compositions built on benzoin, labdanum and vanilla.

    Honeyed, balsamic, often powdery. A glow rather than a sharpness.

    Ingredients

    • Labdanum
    • Benzoin
    • Vanilla
    • Tonka
    • Myrrh

    Beginner

    • YSL Opium
    • Prada Candy

    Niche

    • Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan
    • Amouage Lyric
  • 03

    Woody

    Built around tree-derived materials — the architectural backbone of perfumery.

    Dry (cedar), creamy (sandalwood), smoky (oud), earthy (vetiver).

    Ingredients

    • Sandalwood
    • Cedar
    • Oud
    • Vetiver
    • Cypress

    Beginner

    • Dior Sauvage
    • Chanel Bois des Îles

    Niche

    • Le Labo Santal 33
    • Diptyque Tam Dao
  • 04

    Aromatic

    Herbs and aromatic plants — the language of barbershops, Mediterranean gardens and clean masculinity.

    Lavender, rosemary, sage, mint, basil. Cool, green, slightly camphorous.

    Ingredients

    • Lavender
    • Rosemary
    • Sage
    • Basil
    • Thyme

    Beginner

    • Acqua di Parma Colonia

    Niche

    • Goutal Eau du Sud
    • Penhaligon's Sartorial
  • 05

    Fougère

    A French structural family — lavender + oakmoss + coumarin. The classical masculine accord.

    Fresh, herbal, slightly sweet hay. Clean and tailored.

    Ingredients

    • Lavender
    • Oakmoss
    • Coumarin (tonka)
    • Geranium

    Beginner

    • Paco Rabanne Pour Homme

    Niche

    • Penhaligon's English Fern
    • Houbigant Fougère Royale
  • 06

    Chypre

    Bergamot top, floral heart, oakmoss-labdanum-patchouli base. A whole worldview in three accords.

    Bittersweet, mossy, dignified — autumnal even in summer.

    Ingredients

    • Bergamot
    • Oakmoss
    • Labdanum
    • Patchouli

    Beginner

    • Chanel Coco Mademoiselle

    Niche

    • Mitsouko (Guerlain)
    • Chypre Palatin (MDCI)
  • 07

    Green

    Crushed leaves, stems, sap, galbanum. The smell of being outside in spring.

    Cold, watery, vegetal — sometimes sharp and bitter.

    Ingredients

    • Galbanum
    • Violet leaf
    • Tomato leaf
    • Fig leaf

    Beginner

    • Chanel No.19

    Niche

    • Chanel Cristalle
    • Hermès Un Jardin sur le Nil
  • 08

    Aquatic

    Synthetic molecules (calone, helional) that evoke salt air, ozone, melon-skin freshness.

    Cool, watery, transparent. A breeze rather than a substance.

    Ingredients

    • Calone
    • Helional
    • Sea salt
    • Algae

    Beginner

    • Davidoff Cool Water

    Niche

    • Heeley Sel Marin
    • CdG Sea
  • 09

    Musky

    From animal glands originally; now a vast family of clean, vegetal, or animalic musks.

    Skin, warmth, intimacy. Often invisible until someone leans in.

    Ingredients

    • Ambrette
    • Galaxolide
    • Muscone

    Beginner

    • Narciso Rodriguez For Her

    Niche

    • Serge Lutens Clair de Musc
    • Frédéric Malle Musc Ravageur
  • 10

    Leather

    Smoke + birch tar + animalic notes — the scent of cured hide, suede, saddle.

    Dry, smoky, sometimes sweet, sometimes feral.

    Ingredients

    • Birch tar
    • Castoreum
    • Isobutyl quinoline
    • Styrax

    Beginner

    • Tom Ford Tuscan Leather

    Niche

    • Knize Ten
    • Chanel Cuir de Russie
  • 11

    Resinous

    Tree resins and balsams — frankincense, myrrh, benzoin, opoponax. Sacred materials.

    Smoky, sweet, ecclesiastic. A weight to the air.

    Ingredients

    • Frankincense
    • Myrrh
    • Benzoin
    • Opoponax
    • Elemi

    Beginner

    • Comme des Garçons Avignon

    Niche

    • Amouage Interlude Man
    • Maison Margiela By the Fireplace
  • 12

    Gourmand

    Edible accords — vanilla, caramel, coffee, chocolate, praline. Born with Mugler Angel (1992).

    Sweet, comforting, dessert-adjacent. Sometimes salty or boozy to balance.

    Ingredients

    • Vanilla
    • Ethyl maltol
    • Coffee
    • Cocoa
    • Caramel

    Beginner

    • Mugler Angel
    • YSL Black Opium

    Niche

    • Kilian Love Don't Be Shy
    • Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau
  • 13

    Animalic

    Notes that smell of skin, hair, fur, body — civet, castoreum, hyraceum, ambergris.

    Warm, dirty, intimate. Can read as filth or as fascination.

    Ingredients

    • Civet
    • Castoreum
    • Hyraceum
    • Musk

    Beginner

    • Kiehl's Original Musk

    Niche

    • Serge Lutens Muscs Koublaï Khän
    • Salomé (Papillon)
  • 14

    Powdery

    Iris, violet, heliotrope, ionones — the texture of face powder, suede gloves, old letters.

    Soft, dry, slightly cold. Romantic in a haunted way.

    Ingredients

    • Iris
    • Heliotrope
    • Violet
    • Ionones

    Beginner

    • Lancôme Trésor

    Niche

    • Chanel No.19 Poudré
    • Frédéric Malle Iris Poudre